July 2011

Friendlier Legislation for New York State Farm Wineries

by Lindsey A. Zahn on July 26, 2011

As a New York resident—and a very strong advocate for both New York wineries and the development of the state’s wine law—I am excited to announce that the New York State Governor, Andrew Cuomo, signed a bill, entitled the Fine Winery Bill, on Friday that significantly reduces the regulatory burdens for New York farm wineries. Farm wineries in New York State, as defined by Article I, § 3 of the Alcoholic Beverage Control Act, are “any place or premises, located on a farm in New York state, in which wine is manufactured and sold.” Currently, the New York State Liquor Authority (“NYSLA”) strongly regulates farm wineries with respect to direct shipment reports, branch store operations, and custom crush skills. (Current New York State liquor laws are accessible by viewing the consolidated alcoholic beverage control laws of New York State at Alcoholic Beverage Control.)

The Fine Winery Bills executes several of the suggestions presented by the New York State Grape Task Force in its December 2008 report to the Commissioner of the Department of Agriculture and Markets. The bill includes the following changes:

  • Brand Store Capability: the bill allows farm wineries to manage up to five branch stores. Existing New York law allows for farm wineries to operate up to five satellite stores, but said stores much acquire separate licenses and are bound by the same restrictions as package/liquor stores. The Fine Winery Bill allows the branches of farm wineries to be classified as extensions of the farm winery as opposed to separate entities, which grants greater ease for farm wineries with respect to opening satellites around New York state.
  • Custom Crush Capability: “[t]he bill clarifies the ability of farm wineries to provide and/or utilize custom crush services for purchasers of New York grapes, thereby encouraging smaller vineyards to enter in the industry, which in turn will foster rural economic growth.” (See Governor Signs Legislation Boosting Wine Industry.)
  • Direct Shipper’s Reports: with respect to direct shipment, farm wineries are now permitted to keep records detailing their direct shipments to other states on the premises of the farm winery for NYSLA to review if requested. Previously, New York State wineries were required to produce detailed and time-consuming reports for NYSLA that outlined their direct shipments to outside states. These reports were underutilized by the NYSLA and, it is maintained, that the new Fine Winery Bill will greatly reduce the time constraints required for the prior provisions of direct shipment reports.
  • License Consolidation: the new bill no longer requires farm wineries that produce less than 1,500 gallons annually to apply annually for a separate micro-winery license; instead, all farm wineries will maintain the same license with a micro-winery license costing $50 annually.
  • Charitable Events: “New York wineries seeking to participate in charitable events are no longer restricted to five per year. Now, wineries will have to obtain an annual permit and notify [NY]SLA of the event, greatly reducing the amount of burden on both wineries and [NY]SLA, while ensuring the same oversight.” (Id.)

This bill, which is a great sign for New York wineries, confirms the continual positive legislative development for New York State wineries. For a state that currently boasts the placement as the third largest producer of wine in the United States, behind California and Washington states, its laws can be deemed restrictive and nonessential. In the future years, it is hoped that additional legislative and regulatory measures will be developed, maintained, and executed such to encourage the auxiliary growth of the New York State wine industry. In the last twenty years alone, wine production increased in New York by over 50% to include the production of nearly 200 million bottles annually and generated about $420 million in sales per year. (Id.) Additionally, the wine agricultural industry is one of the–if not the–fastest growing industries in New York State. In fact, presently, “[t]he New York wine and grape industry has a $3.76 billion economic impact from the production of wine and grapes grown on nearly 1,400 vineyards statewide. Since the passage of the Farm Winery Law in 1976, the number of New York’s farm wineries has grown from under twenty to nearly 306 today.” (Id.) With continued legal measures like the above, it is only rational the wine industry of New York will continue to grow at a healthy pace.

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Life’s greatest levels of enlightenment derive from the journeys you take and the people you meet; for me, this idiom could not have possibly stood stronger during the 2011 Wine & Law Program on Transnational Wine Trade Law in Champagne, France. My acceptance to the Wine & Law Program last winter produced much excitement amid my family, but the level of instruction and guidance received by the Program’s convocation was, for me, truly momentous.

On Monday, June 20, 2011, eight students gathered in a classroom at the Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne, excitedly awaiting their first lesson on wine law. We arrived from four countries (United States, Greece, Spain, and China) and brought with us impressive, but applicable, backgrounds from a variety of companies and professions (Moët Hennessy, Domaine Carneros, Rhône Valley Wines, one wine law lecturer, and five attorneys, inclusive of one law school student). Throughout the upcoming two weeks, we were to be instructed by Stephen Charters, professor of Champagne Management at the Reims Management School and one of only 240 Masters of Wine in the world; Theodore Georgopoulos, senior lecturer at Reims Law School and responsible for Research on Wine Law at the Université of Reims Law School (“Vine & Wine Project”); Justin Cohen, lecturer and researcher at Ecole Supérieure d’Agriculture d’Angers and in charge of the marketing and economics program in the International Master Vintage degree; Richard Mendelson, attorney at the U.S. wine law firm Dickenson, Peatman & Fogarty and lecturer in Wine Law at U.C. Berkeley School of Law, where he is also the director of the Program on Wine Law and Policy; and Chi Carmody, Associate Professor and Canadian Director of the Canada-United States Law Institute at the University of Western Ontario Faculty of Law in London, Ontario, Canada.

The History of the Wine & Law Program in Champagne, France

DSC 0531 Life After Champagne: Synopsis of the 2011 Wine & Law Summer Program

Reims Notre Dame Cathedral

The Wine & Law Program was established last year, during the Summer of 2010, under the direction of Dr. Theodore Georgopoulos. The summer curriculum is a two-week, intensive program that focuses on a global topic accompanied by a subset of courses, with graduates of the Program obtaining a University Diploma; the Program also offers a Masters degree over the course of one full-time year. The Wine & Law Program is taught at the Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne in Reims, France. Reims is located in the Champagne region of France, one of the most protected regions of wine production under French law. It is truly only suitable that the Wine & Law Program is taught in such a highly regulated area, as our studies included not only overviews of wine law in the United States, the European Union, Australia, and Canada, but also trips to the surrounding region to learn about the legal protections of growing and producing the sparkling wine Champagne. The ability to understand—and to grow to appreciate—the directives of the Champagne region of France from our in-class lectures and discussions is what constructs the heart of this Program, as well as contributes to its widespread successes.

DSC 1081 Life After Champagne: Synopsis of the 2011 Wine & Law Summer Program

Veuve Clicquot Maison de Verzy

Last year, the program instructed students on European Union Wine Law and brought professors and professionals from a variety of European countries to conduct lessons. Its first class of eight students graduated on July 13, 2010 at Trianon, Moët & Chandon after the first Annual Global Wine Law Lecture held by Mr. Yves Bênard, President of the International Organization of Vine and Wines and the Wine and Spirits Committee of the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine. This summer, the program focused on Transnational Wine Trade Law, which was especially appropriate after the ratification of the new EU-Australia wine trade agreement last fall. The second class graduated on July 2, 2011 at the Maison de Verzy of the champagne house Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin after a spectacular presentation by Ms. Margaret Henriquez, President of the Krug Champagne House, at the Second Annual Global Wine Law Lecture. For a program that just celebrated its first birthday, the opportunities it avails and connections it has since developed are impressive and incomparable to any other.

The Summer 2011 Session of the Wine & Law Program

DSC 1151 Life After Champagne: Synopsis of the 2011 Wine & Law Summer Program

Neighboring Vineyards of Veuve Clicquot's Maison de Verzy

Our two weeks of intensive instruction surveyed the following areas: (1) wine history and economics; (2) EU-U.S. wine marketing; (3) EU wine law; (4) U.S. wine law; and (5) alcoholic beverages in international trade. We received a comprehensive background on the overtones of U.S. history and Prohibition-era regulations on wine law from Professor Mendelson, who emphasized that an understanding of our nation’s history with and treatment of wine and liquor is essential to interpreting the contemporary U.S. federal and state legislation of alcoholic beverages. Additionally, Professor Mendelson examined the federal regulations, specifically the Internal Revenue Code and the Federal Alcohol Administration Act, of the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), which is the primary federal agency that regulates alcohol in the U.S. We learned about the requirements under 27 C.F.R. § 4.32, which sets forth Mandatory Label Information for wines. These directives were particularly helpful guiding each of us through our in-class presentations of a case study on penetrating the U.S. market as a French wine producer.

On the opposite side of the globe, Dr. Georgopoulous relayed his experiences as an EU wine lawyer. After examining several subsets of EU law—including an overview of the institutional and substantive EU wine law, free movement of vines and wines in the common market, taxation, protection of designation of origin and geographical indications, and the labeling of wine in the EU—we gained a more global perception of wine law and learned concepts that were particularly applicable to the region in which we were studying. The theme of global wine trade followed in our lectures with Dr. Carmody, who reviewed trade agreements and their appurtenant provisions pertaining to the wine industry, including the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT), the World Trade Organization Agreement (WTO Agreement), and the Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPs). With respect to TRIPs, Dr. Carmody focused on Articles 22, 23, and 24, specifically noting that wine and spirits are the enumerated subjects of Article 23.

DSC 0972 Life After Champagne: Synopsis of the 2011 Wine & Law Summer Program

Moët & Chandon Champagne Caves

From the first day of the Program to the last day of the Program, each day was filled with six hours of in-class lessons followed by field trips to the surrounding areas. Our lessons and trips would have been incomplete had we not visited the champagne caves and tasted champagnes at several different champagne houses and producers, including Moët & Chandon, Ruinart Champagne House, and Napoléon and Paul Goerg in Vertus. Additionally, we had the pleasure of visiting the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) in Épernay to hear the experiences of Charles Goemaere, the attorney for the CIVC and responsible for the protection of the appellation Champagne.

A Progressive Glance: Direction from the Wine & Law Program

For me, the Wine & Law Program could not have possibly been more long-awaited; after “discovering” wine law on the brink of my graduation from Cornell a little over two years ago, the Program was a much-needed realm in which I could fuse together my in-class international business law background and external research on wine law with like-minded students and professionals passionate about wine and law. At the plurality of American law schools, classes specifically addressing the legal overtones of wine trade—or just wine law in general—are simply not an option to law students. This is quite an unfortunate fact, and one that will hopefully change within the next few years as the legal implications of wine and academic curiosity for wine and law grow with the American wine industry. Additionally, the Wine & Law Program is still quite young; within time, it is simply evident that forthcoming students—hopefully some of which will be aspiring wine lawyers in the States—will depart with strong lessons from their own experiences. The Program’s two-week domain, albeit it short, reaffirmed the route of my own vocational pathway and allowed me to develop additional professional goals on my trip back to the States.

DSC 1160 Life After Champagne: Synopsis of the 2011 Wine & Law Summer Program

Wine & Law Program University of Reims Summer 2011 at La Maison de Verzy

Congratulations to my fellow graduates from the second graduating class of the Wine & Law Program, Class of 2011: Eileen Fabunan, David López Lluch, Andreas Papadimitriou, Mark Pedriani, Taryn Ravazzini, and Kristina Schnur. An additional congratulations is in store for Domenico Cavallo, a graduate of the first class of the Wine & Law Program, whose ambition and zeal helped establish and christen the Wine & Law Alumni Association several days shy of the Program’s first anniversary. Gratitude is forever indebted to Professors Stephen Charters, Justin Cohen, Richard Mendelson, and Chi Carmody, whose inspirational and ingenious backgrounds with wine and law fashioned the volumes of our own scholarship. Finally, I cannot thank enough, and am eternally grateful to the guidance of, Dr. Theodore Georgopoulos, director of the Wine & Law Program. Thank you all for a summer filled with substantial professional definition, and one I shall always remember fondly.

DSC 1198 514x1024 Life After Champagne: Synopsis of the 2011 Wine & Law Summer Program

Enjoying a glass of Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec Champagne at our graduation dinner

Whereas this was an incredible journey and possibly the most directive experience of my professional life, my wine law voyage has only set sail and I still have much to learn. I am incredibly excited, but more so honored, to announce that the Center for Wine Origins invited me to Porto, Portugal this September to be educated about the production of Port wine and the legal objectives Portugal is pursuing to protect Port in the United States. After this very educational trip to Champagne, and upon learning about the regional qualities and history of Champagne, France, I could not be a stronger advocate of Truth-In-Labeling and the protection of wine place and origin. Alas, I am quite excited to learn about Port wine—a wine that is also considered to be a semi-generic wine, like Champagne, under U.S. law—in the next two months. Cheers!

Photographs are property of Lindsey A. Zahn, 2011 Wine & Law Program Université de Reims Champagne-Ardenne.

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Last month, at the wine law event hosted by UC Davis, the 2006 U.S.-EC Wine Agreement represented the nexus of the symposium.  As a follow-up post to the conference, allow me to review the “objectives” of the Agreement: to further emphasize the need for greater camaraderie between the United States and the European Community. Indeed a “spirit of cooperation” was targeted as essential for facilitating bilateral trade negotiations. However, it appears that on at least one front—or, more apt, for at least one bottle of wine—the U.S. falls short of the mark. It is the case of the legendary Vin Jaune (French for “yellow wine”), a traditional white wine from the Jura region of eastern France known for its unique flavor and distinctive bottle; the wine is currently restricted from US import.

Without getting bogged down in the minutia of international wine trade (the pact is 119 pages and can be downloaded from the TTB website, The Agreement Between the United States and the European Community on Trade in Wine), a glance at its Objectives will provide some insight as to why the Agreement was originally created. Signed on March 10, 2006, the U.S.-EC Wine Agreement sets out to recognize “each other’s existing current winemaking practices.” In Title I, the preamble breaks down the motivations for creating this bilateral agreement: “Recognizing the desire to establish closer links in the wine sector; determined to foster the development of trade in wine within the framework of increased mutual understanding; and resolved to provide a harmonizing environment for addressing wine trade issues between the Parties” (words in bold are also highlighted in the Agreement). Article 1 aims to “facilitate trade in wine, improve cooperation in the development [of wine trade], and enhance the transparency of regulations . . . to lay the foundation for broad agreement on trade . . . and to provide a framework for continued negotiations in the wine sector.” The Agreement closes with a declaration by both Parties to “strive, in good faith, and for a reasonable period of time, to resolve any bilateral issues concerning trade in wine . . . through informal bilateral consultations, rather than through formal dispute settlement negotiations.”

clavelin A Case for Vin Jaune: The Golden Wine of Seemingly Immortal CharacterThat said, let us consider Vin Jaune. If you’re a wine enthusiast, you’re most likely familiar with this famous wine and its puzzling absence on the American wine market. According to the centuries-old winemaking creed of Vin Jaune, this curious yellow wine is traditionally contained in a “clavelin,” a squat bottle with a deep kick-up filled to 62 centiliters. U.S. regulations, however, require a standard of fill at 75 centiliters for wine imports. Even so, overcoming import requirements through “continued negotiations” for extraordinary cases such as Vin Jaune is precisely why the 2006 Wine Agreement originated (additionally, another traditional product cherished by Americans, the rice wine “sake” is exempt from similar import complications). Attempts by EU Commission officers seeking to “recognize each other’s existing winemaking practices” by advocating for an exemption for Vin Jaune based on its designation as a  “traditional product” have fallen on deaf ears in the United States.

In the EU, legislation foresees an exception for this special niche wine by mandating a standard fill of 62 ml to honor the centuries-old clavelin and the traditional wine culture of the Jura region. At this point in Vin Jaune’s expansive history, adapting production to suit U.S. import regulations would be nothing short of blasphemy for its winemakers, who reside in the birthplace of the original clavelin created more than 500 years ago. Clearly, the bottle and the wine are indivisible. The winegrowers of Savagnin, the only varietal used in Vin Jaune, religiously surrender a sacrament upon each vintage when an “angel’s share” of wine, roughly 62%, evaporates through loose-fitted casks during a six to ten year ageing process. Consequently, 62 ml of every liter of juice that goes into a vin jaune barrel is destined for a clavelin (winemaking note: topping off a barrel of authentic Vin Jaune is outside of French law).There is no denying an overt reverence for this prized wine among locals, and also by the international cult following who annually flock to the Jura region for the La Percée du Vin Jaune (“Opening of the Yellow Wine”) Festival in early February.

Granted, this curious white wine is not for the timid. Perhaps an acquired taste, “Napoleon’s wine” is known for its bold and charismatic flavor but as a premium cooking wine it can be appreciated by most. The rich nutty taste and hints of curry that characterize this wine will push any dish when used in sauces over chicken and seafood (with lobster, utterly divine). On that order, Vin Jaune enjoys fine company at Masterchef Alain Ducasse’s table, who has featured his own rendition of a Vin Jaune cream sauce over Dove sole and squid at The Dorchester, in London.  Alas, if you’re reading this stateside you’ll have to cross the pond to legally experience a dish of this magnitude. (Admittedly, “sample cases” of Vin Jaune have escaped through U.S. Customs if you’ve chanced upon a bottle here or there.)

thejuraregion A Case for Vin Jaune: The Golden Wine of Seemingly Immortal Character

In the spirit of American diversity and competition, and with an attitude of increased cooperation as wine producers navigate a rapidly transforming global marketplace, a small gesture of good will by U.S. regulators in the case of Vin Jaune is hardly beyond reason. Possessing a distinct position in the history of world famous wines, this “seemingly immortal” wine embodies French terroir and honors traditional winemaking practices in ways that few other wines can match. Surely, it deserves recognition on American tables. Even more crucial, winegrowers of the ancient Savagnin deserve opportunities in the US marketplace. Earning an exemption for Vin Jaune will no doubt call for esprit de corps among US wine advocates: petition! petition!

Image credit: Katie and Ricardo Villarreal of travelpluswine.com.

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